Rudder Skin Riveting

Well, everyone was gone today, so let’s make some noise!!!

First, let’s get the skin clecoed onto the rudder skeleton!

If you look closely, you can see that I’m clecoing every third hole, then putting in solid rivets and pieces of blue tape.

After riveting the first side, getting completely distracted by the second side (and forgetting to take any “during” photos), here’s the rudder riveted* to the skeleton.

*Not completely riveted.

I love this stage of an assembly. It’s so close!

Here’s what I mean by not riveted. There are a few open holes near the back side of the rudder tip. It was too tight for me to buck and I wasn’t ready to use blind rivets here yet.

Lonely hole

But, let’s not waste any time with the next step. Let’s roll those leading edges.

I didn’t write down all the steps, but generally you tape a pvc or metal bar to the metal flap that needs to be rolled and you use a pipe wrench to roll the bar, thus rolling the surface.

Here’s the first of six total sections I need to roll.

A decent start.

After you roll opposing sides, you cleco them together (then eventually use blind rivets.

Here are two of the three sections done.

feels good to be 2/3 through this part of the rudder.

Of course there is still some elbow grease involved, but it felt SOOO GOOD to get the last of these clecos in.

no more muscular work tonight.

Rivets starting to go in!

The bottom section, rolled and riveted.
This is a completed shot.
Another completed shot.

Of COURSE I had to set it up with the vertical stabilizer for the money shot.

ta daaaaa!

(Oh god, do you remember what happened to me last time?)

Let’s just celebrate that 15 years later, I have apparently gained enough sense to not drop it this time.

Where should I store this beast of an assembly?

That’ll work.

Man, it felt like tonight FLEW by!

124 Rivets, 1.5 hours on the rudder.

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Author: Andrew

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